Murnau am Staffelsee in the Blue Land - insider tips from a tour guide

Updated on February 12, 2026 by Angelika Klein

Some places are not obvious at first glance. Murnau am Staffelsee is one such place. Between Staffelsee, the foothills of the Alps and Murnauer Moos lies a market that combines art history, nature and the Bavarian way of life in a special way - provided you know where to look.

Murnau is considered the capital of the Blue Land, the landscape that is inseparable from the Blue Rider (Der Blaue Reiter) . Ever since my school days, I have been fascinated by this group of expressionist artists, whose traces can still be found in Murnau and its surroundings today.

Shortly before my trip, a lucky coincidence occurred: Through a mutual friend I met the Murnau tour guide Jac-Peter Tölkes. During my visit in October 2025, I had the opportunity to discover Murnau not only on my own, but also together with an insider who has known the town for years and was able to tell me lots of interesting things about it. He not only knows the dates, but also makes connections, stories and moods visible.

In the following interview, Jac-Peter talks about „his“ Murnau: about well-known places and quiet corners, about the special landscape of the Murnauer Moos, about art, history and personal perspectives. A conversation for anyone who wants to understand Murnau better - and who wants to look beyond the obvious.

Interview with the Murnau tour guide Jac-Peter Tölkes

💡 Tip: If you would like to discover Murnau for yourself, you can find my personal tips on accommodation, cafés and excursions in the surrounding area below.

Understanding Murnau: Location, character, attitude to life

Who are you and what brought you to Murnau?
I am Jac-Peter Tölkes and I have been working as a tour guide in and around Murnau for several years. After around twenty years of frequent moves, my family wanted to settle down. We already knew and liked Murnau - and were finally lucky enough to find a place to stay here.

What fascinates you about Murnau to this day, even though you know the place so well?
Above all, the location and the people. We are located in the foothills of the Bavarian Alps and can see the mountains without being overwhelmed or shaded by them. There are three lakes within walking distance - Staffelsee, Riegsee and Froschhauser See - which, depending on the season, are ideal for swimming, water sports, ice skating or even cross-country skiing.
The population is made up of long-established families and newcomers who have found their way here for very different reasons. This togetherness characterizes the town: traditions are cherished, while at the same time people are open to new things. Around 12,000 residents are involved in around 140 clubs and associations and thus shape the active life in Murnau.

How would you describe Murnau to someone who has never been here before?
As a small town between Munich and Garmisch-Partenkirchen, it has been located on an important route between Germany and Italy for over 2,000 years. Depending on the direction you look, different perspectives and moods open up - from the Murnauer Moos to the Staffelsee and the Alpine mountain ranges. Murnau offers much of what you need to live - often more than you would expect from a place of this size.

What makes Murnau am Staffelsee special

In your opinion, what distinguishes Murnau from other places in the Bavarian Alpine foothills?
A decisive step was the relocation of the B2 federal road away from the town center. The pedestrian zone that was created around 25 years ago still characterizes the special flair of our town today. Architect Emanuel von Seidl embellished the town between 1906 and 1913, which had a lasting impact.

In addition, Murnau has a very good infrastructure: the Berufsgenossenschaftliche Unfallklinik and numerous medical practices provide care, and with facilities ranging from kindergarten to grammar school, education is also well covered locally.

But there is something else that characterizes Murnau at least as much - and which cannot be planned or designed: the landscape right on the doorstep. What role do Staffelsee and Murnauer Moos play in the town's identity?
From my point of view, the Murnauer Moos plays a bigger role than the Staffelsee. Murnau has only had a small share of the Staffelsee shore since 1979, even though the lake has been attracting many summer visitors for around 150 years, who have been able to travel there comfortably by train since 1879.

The Murnauer Moos, on the other hand, has been used since time immemorial - initially mainly for agricultural purposes. For around 40 years, the focus has been on nature conservation, with the result that the moss is now managed and maintained in a nature-friendly manner. With an area of around 36 square kilometers, it is one of the largest contiguous moorland areas in the region and a habitat for thousands of animal species and around 1,100 plant species.

History that shapes Murnau to this day

Which historical developments have had a particular impact on Murnau?
From my point of view, there were two main decisions made by the German king and later emperor Louis the Bavarian, who had a lasting influence on Murnau. In 1322, he elevated the village to a Market - a privilege that continues to this day. Since then, Murnau has been allowed to hold a market four times a year: the Palm market on Palm Sunday, the Scapular market in July, the Michaelimarkt at the end of September and the Leonhardimarkt on November 6. These markets attracted people from the surrounding area early on and shaped the economic life of the town.

A second, long-lasting decision followed in 1332: Ludwig the Bavarian bought the market town of Murnau from the Bishop of Augsburg and donated it to the Ettal Abbey. Murnau was given the task of taking over the administration and jurisdiction of the monastery lands - a function that the town exercised until secularization in 1803, i.e. for over 480 years.

And that brings us to the personalities who have shaped Murnau ...
Several personalities had a decisive influence on Murnau's development. Emeran Kottmüller, brewer, businessman and politician, successfully campaigned for the railroad connection, which was realized in 1879. The architect Emanuel von Seidl settled in Murnau, laid out the Seidl Park, which still exists today, and had a lasting impact on the townscape between 1906 and 1913.

Literary and political traces were also left behind in Murnau: The writer Ödön von Horváth lived and worked mainly here between 1924 and 1933. Dr. Leopold Huber, a teacher and local politician, resisted National Socialism and served Horváth as a role model for the first-person narrator in „Youth without God“.

With Christoph Probst, who was born in Murnau in 1919 and died in 1943 as a member of the White Rose was executed, the place is also closely linked to the history of resistance against the Nazi dictatorship.

Finally, the James Loeb and his wife Marie Antonie were patrons and benefactors for Murnau - among other things, the construction of the hospital, which opened in 1932, can be traced back to their work.

Are there places or details that are often overlooked but tell a lot?
Many buildings in Murnau tell a story, even if there are hardly any very old structures. Several major fires have changed the town time and again. Until 1803, Murnau was also the southernmost market between Munich and Scharnitz, as the Werdenfelser Land was under the jurisdiction of the diocese of Freising. This special location is reflected, among other things, in the eventful history of the Murnau Castle which is still comprehensible today.

Murnau as a place of artists - more than the Blue Rider

Many people associate Murnau with art and the „Blue Rider“ - what should visitors definitely know about it?
The artists of the „Neue Künstlervereinigung München“ were neither the first nor the last artists to work in and around Murnau. Even before the Expressionists, artists such as Johann Michael Wittmer, Philipp Sporrer, Carl Spitzweg or Waldemar Kolmsperger in the region.

Even later, Murnau remained a center of attraction for artists. Artists such as Carl and Erna Rabus, Cuno Fischer and Rudolf Pfefferer continued this tradition. The town is still alive today: Three artists' associations are currently active in and around Murnau.

While many of us are familiar with Der Blaue Reiter from art lessons and it has a firm place in the history of art in Western Europe, this artists' association is by no means universally known internationally. However, what all visitors notice regardless of this is the special light of the landscape around Murnau - and the multitude of motifs that continue to inspire artistic work to this day.

Before we go any further, it's worth taking a quick look at what many people associate with Murnau first - and which is only part of the story.

The Murnauer Moos - nature, use and responsibility

What do you think makes the Murnauer Moos so special?
For me, the Murnauer Moos is extraordinary in many ways. It has been used by people for centuries - for example by mowing reeds as bedding for stables, collecting berries, roots and herbs or by hunting and fishing. The cutting of peat also played a role, both for heating and for medicinal purposes.

It is interesting to note that the comparatively short period of rock extraction in the northern mossy hills, the so-called „Köcheln“, which lasted around a hundred years, has left much stronger traces than the predominantly extensive use of the area for around a thousand years beforehand.

Today, the Murnauer Moos is a valuable habitat for numerous animal and plant species. What many people do not suspect: Without targeted human intervention in landscape management, the moss would not look the way we know it today. Nor would it be home to this great diversity of species. People - real experts - create habitats that meet the needs of the respective animal and plant species.

How does the moss change over the course of the seasons?
The Murnauer Moos has a very special atmosphere at any time of year. It is particularly colorful between the end of April and the beginning of August, when many plants are in bloom. But there is also plenty to discover outside of this period.

From March to October, you are accompanied by the song of numerous bird species, and at the end of September, you can experience a special natural spectacle with the rutting of the stags - from a safe distance, of course. And finally, in winter, the moss radiates a deep, almost contemplative calm.

Which paths or viewpoints would you recommend to visitors exploring the moss for the first time?
For an initial exploration, the approximately twelve-kilometre-long Moss circular route, which is well signposted. I recommend taking a snack with you and enjoying it at one of the shelters along the Knüppelweg.

If the „beaver family“ allows it and the path is not impassable due to dammed water, the short Moos circular trail, which is around three kilometers long, is also worth taking. Another nice option is a walk from the Weghaus estate to the west - initially on asphalt paths, later on gravel paths and narrow trails. Simply walk as far as you like and then return along the same path.

I recommend two viewpoints: a pavilion on Kottmüller-Allee and a point near the Berggeist settlement, which can be reached on foot from Gasthaus Ähndl in around 30 to 45 minutes.

Personal perspectives & favorite places

What should you definitely see in Murnau - and which corners are particularly surprising to visitors?
The pedestrian zone with Obermarkt and Untermarkt is definitely worth a visit. It surprises many visitors with its colorful, partly painted house facades, the eight fountains, the decorative trees to the left and right of the street and the so-called „Auslegern“ - artistically designed advertising boards on the house facades that provide information about what is on offer in the respective store, restaurant or doctor's practice.

Other highlights include the castle museum, the two breweries that still exist today - out of more than ten that once existed - the Kottmüllerallee and the Ähndl inn, whose beer garden is a special place not only for its cuisine, but above all for the view. Right next to it is the Ähndl church. Also worth a visit are the Seidlpark and of course the three lakes (Staffelsee, Riegsee, Froschhauser See) around Murnau.

In conclusion: What remains of Murnau

Finally, a point that is becoming increasingly important to me when traveling: What would you like visitors to take home with them from Murnau - apart from photos?
Recreation. And the memory of a good time spent here.

If you would like to discover Murnau for yourself after this interview, you can find my personal impressions, tips and recommendations for a stay here below.

Personal thanks to Jac-Peter Tölkes

I would like to take this opportunity to thank Jac, whom I was able to accompany several times in Murnau: the day after my arrival on a tour of the town and two days later on a guided tour of the Murnauer Moos. We actually wanted to walk the short circular route in the moss. But the path was impassable due to a beaver lodge. Instead, we walked a little way up the hill to a viewpoint over the moss. From there, there was a wide view over the moorland - on this day with particularly good visibility and clear air.

After our short tour, we visited the Ähndl church, this photogenic little church right next to the moss, and rounded off the tour with a coffee in the beer garden of the Ähndl inn. I'll be back to Murnau in April - hopefully to hike the long loop through the moss.

This mixture of knowledge, flexibility and a feel for special moments has shown me how much difference it makes to be on the road with someone who really knows - and loves - their region.

Guided tours through Murnau with Jac-Peter Tölkes

If you don't just want to see Murnau, but really understand it, a guided tour with Jac-Peter Tölkes is just the thing for you. As a tour guide with local knowledge, he conveys history, art and landscape not as dry facts, but as a coherent narrative - always with a view to what still characterizes Murnau today. His tours lead through the town center as well as into the Murnauer Moos and show how closely nature, culture and everyday life are connected here.

Many participants particularly appreciate the fact that Jac not only explains the familiar, but also points out connections that are otherwise easily overlooked. Anyone who wants to delve deeper into the history of the market, the significance of the artists' village or the special features of the moorland landscape will find real added value on his guided tours. Information on dates and offers can be found on his website.

Many of the places Jac mentions in the interview are easy to explore on your own. To give you an overview, I have put together the most important sights in Murnau here:

The most important sights in Murnau am Staffelsee

Even on your own Murnau am Staffelsee explore well. Many sights are close to each other and can be easily reached on foot:

• Münter House
  Former residence of Gabriele Münter and Wassily Kandinsky and one of the central locations of the Blue Rider. Today, as a museum, the house provides a very personal insight into the life, work and everyday life of the artists and is considered a key location in the history of modern art in Germany.
• Murnauer Schlossmuseum (Murnau Castle Museum)
  Museum of local and art history in the historic Murnau castle. In addition to the development of the market, works and backgrounds of the artists of the Blue Rider are also shown here, supplemented by changing special exhibitions.
• Murnauer Moos
  Extensive moorland area with walking and hiking trails that has a lasting impact on the landscape around Murnau. As one of the largest contiguous moors in Central Europe, it is a habitat for numerous animal and plant species and a special place for observing nature at any time of year.
• Market Street Murnau
  The colorful pedestrian zone with the upper and lower markets forms the heart of Murnau. With the Marian column, fountain, cafés, small stores and the town hall, it offers beautiful photo opportunities and invites you to take a relaxed stroll through the town center.
• Church of St. George (Ramsach Church)
  Situated on a hill on the edge of the Murnauer Moos, the so-called Ähndl is one of the oldest churches in the region. From here, there is an impressive view across the moorland to the Alps; the neighboring beer garden is particularly popular due to its location and view.
• St. Nicholas parish church
  The baroque parish church with adjoining cemetery is not only an important place because of Gabriele Münter's grave. When the weather is fine, it also offers sweeping views over the Blue Land and the surrounding countryside.
• Staffelsee
  The Murnau boat landing stage Achele in the so-called Schweinebucht is around one kilometer from the train station. There is a bathing area, boat hire and a lakeside path that invites you to take a walk with a view of the lake and the Alps.

These places form a good basis for a first visit and can be easily combined, depending on your interests and pace, whether for a detour or a whole day in Murnau.

My personal impressions from Murnau

During the tours with Jac-Peter Tölkes and my wanderings through Murnau, I was able to experience how closely the landscape and cultural development are interwoven here. Some places particularly surprised me - not necessarily because they are well-known, but because of details that you only notice when you take your time.

The Münter House
The house is not just a museum, but a very personal place - you get the feeling that Münter and Kandinsky could walk through the door at any time and continue working on their paintings. The fact that original furniture is still preserved here and that you stand in front of a cupboard or a staircase that Wassily Kandinsky painted himself makes the visit unusually approachable. When you look out over Murnau and the landscape from the blossoming garden, you get a good sense of how people lived, worked and thought here - and why Murnau was so important to the artists of the „Blue Rider“.

The Murnau Castle Museum
In Castle Museum In addition to many works by the artists of the „Blue Rider“, there is also a Permanent exhibition on the life and work of Ödön von Horváth and an impressive Reverse glass art collection, in which I even saw a work by Gerhard Richter discovered (Ifrit, 2010). The museum is very well designed, clearly laid out and at the same time provides deep insights into the background - a place where you can easily spend several hours if you get involved with the art. For me, it is one of the highlights of Murnau.

Walk with a view: the Königsweg
I would also highly recommend the Königsweg, a four-kilometre circular route through Murnau. It starts at the King Ludwig Monument in the spa gardens, leads through a small wood to Luitpold-Höhe and further up to Ludwigshöhe, from where there is a wonderful view of Lake Staffelsee. Along the way, numerous plaques provide information about the history of Murnau and the Wittelsbach family, as well as about Christoph Probst, whose childhood home is nearby. Again and again, benches and views invite you to linger - a walk that combines exercise, history and landscape in a very pleasant way. You can find more themed trails and hiking tips on the Murnau tourism website.

If you are now starting to plan your own trip, the following sections will help you get your bearings - from ideas for excursions and accommodation to how to get there.

Practical tips & excursions in the surrounding area

Excursions that I have already undertaken

I will limit myself to a selection here, as I am planning a separate article about excursion destinations in the region:

The day trip to the Neuschwanstein, , combined with a Walk along the Alpsee and a Tour through Füssen. The small town is extremely pretty and offers with Lech Falls, Franciscan monastery and High castle significantly more than most people expect.

The detour to the Wieskirche and to the Ettal Abbey - Two places that can easily be combined in one day and show very different facets of Bavarian history.

Another highlight was the Cable car ride up the Laber with a wide view as far as Lake Starnberg, followed by a Stroll through Oberammergau.

I particularly enjoyed an evening walk around the Staffelsee near Seehausen at sunset, when there was hardly anyone else out and about - as well as a walk around the Riegsee. I definitely want to walk around the lake on my next visit.

Excursions I am planning for my next visit

I already have other destinations on my list for my stay in April: a boat trip on the Staffelsee, a trip to Garmisch-Partenkirchen with Zugspitze and Eibsee, a visit to the Glentleiten Open-Air Museum and a detour to Bernried to the Museum of the Imagination.

Other destinations in the vicinity of Murnau, such as Kochelsee, Walchensee, the Franz Marc Museum or the Herzogstand deserve their own article in my opinion - the region has more than enough to offer.

Staying overnight in and around Murnau - my tips

Murnau offers accommodation for different requirements - from comfortable luxury hotels to family-run guesthouses. Depending on whether you value wellness, a central location or peace and quiet, it's worth taking a closer look.

Alpenhof Murnau*
The Alpenhof Murnau is the only five-star hotel in the village and is situated not far from the Murnauer Moos in a quiet location with a view of the Alps. Anyone looking for relaxation, superior comfort and a spacious spa area is in good hands here. The location is particularly suitable for guests who appreciate nature and tranquillity and would rather use Murnau as a starting point for walks and excursions.

Hotel Post Murnau garni*
Located in the middle of the pedestrian zone, the Hotel Post is ideal for anyone who likes to stay centrally and stroll through the town in the evening. Historically interesting: King Ludwig II stayed here on his way to Linderhof Palace. Today, the hotel combines tradition with a very good location - perfect for exploring Murnau on foot.

House Andre - My personal insider tip
I myself stayed in Riedhausen, between Murnau and Seehausen, in the small family guesthouse Haus Andre - and felt very comfortable there. The location is quiet, the rooms bright and friendly, with solid wood furniture and a balcony. The bathrooms are older, but everything was spotlessly clean. In addition, the prices are fair and the atmosphere is pleasant and personal. Also ideal for a vacation with a dog and for cyclists. A real insider tip for anyone who likes it uncomplicated and cozy.

Cafés & restaurants in Murnau - my recommendations

One thing first: In Murnau, it is almost impossible to get a table in the evening - especially at weekends - without a reservation. This is still true even in October. If you want to eat out spontaneously, you should either make a reservation in advance or be out and about very early in the evening - ideally around 6 pm at the latest.

Il Duetto
On the first evening, I was lucky and got a table at the Italian restaurant Il Duetto on the Obermarkt. I opted for a delicious porcini mushroom risotto with a side salad. The service was very friendly and quick, and the menu offers a good selection of pizza, pasta and Italian meat and fish dishes - all at fair prices. A good address for an enjoyable start to the evening.

Karg-Bräustüberl
At the Karg-Bräustüberl on Untermarkt, guests without a reservation often line up outside the door at around 5 p.m. to get a seat - and that's what I did. I was rewarded with a beer goulash from the „Riegseer Weideochs“ with spaetzle and mixed salad. A cozy, typical Bavarian brewery restaurant where you are usually seated at a large table with other guests without a reservation. If you like conviviality, this is the place for you.

Time out in the spa gardens - my favorite place
My personal favorite in Murnau was the Time out in the spa gardens. The restaurant is beautifully surrounded by greenery and combines a modern yet warm ambience with beautiful pictures on the walls. Above all, however, the cuisine here is just right: I opted for a fillet of sea bass on ratatouille with a roasted polenta slice - excellently prepared. A place where you'll want to stay longer and enjoy the evening.

Barbara Krönner pastry shop & coffee house
For a sweet break in between or a leisurely afternoon, a visit to the Krönner patisserie in the pedestrian zone is well worthwhile. When the weather is nice, you can sit outside in the middle of the action and choose from a delicious and very varied selection of cakes and tarts. A classic café, just the way you want it - ideal for observing, lingering and enjoying.

Arrival & mobility - tips for your trip to Murnau

Murnau is easy to reach - whether you are traveling by car, train or public transport. Thanks to its location in the foothills of the Bavarian Alps, the town offers convenient connections from all over Germany and a well-organized local transport network.

By train
One of the more relaxed options is to travel by Railroad: From Munich main station there is a regular regional train to Murnau am Staffelsee, the journey time is approx. 45-60 minutes. The route is scenically beautiful and is also suitable for a day trip. From the station it is a short walk 0-15 minutes to the pedestrian zone and the sights of the old town.

There are also train connections from other regions of Germany with a change in Munich, making the train an environmentally friendly and stress-free travel option.

By car
If you are coming by car, the easiest way to reach Murnau is via the Freeway A95 in the direction of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. After a good 50-60 kilometers, take the exit Murnau/Kochel and follow the main road towards the town center. In the town center, I can see the Parkplatz P3 Utzschneiderstraße/Forstanger and Underground parking garage P1 of the Culture & Conference Center (KTM) recommend. Both are located in the immediate vicinity of the pedestrian zone.

By long-distance bus or regional bus
Those traveling by long-distance bus usually arrive via Munich, where there are connections to regional bus lines or the train. Within the region, various bus routes connect the town and the surrounding area, for example for onward travel to places of interest or the Glentleiten open-air museum.

Day trip from Munich
Murnau is also very suitable for a day trip from Munich. The connection by train takes about one hour, and you can spend a wonderful day between lake, art and landscape without having to get up too early.

💡 Tip: If you're traveling by train, it's worth it Bavaria ticket for groups or day trips - so you can travel cheaply and flexibly throughout the region and plan excursions to the lakes or other places around the Blue Land, for example.

Conclusion: Murnau - beautiful at first glance, complex at second glance

Murnau is a place that appeals straight away. The colorful facades of the pedestrian zone, the proximity to the Staffelsee, the open Alpine foothills and the Murnauer Moos give the market a special lightness. It's a wonderful place to arrive, stroll, enjoy - and simply let yourself drift.

At the same time, the more time you take, the richer Murnau reveals itself. Talking to Jac-Peter Tölkes, strolling through the moss or visiting the museums, you can feel how closely art, landscape and history are connected here. Murnau is therefore not just a pretty destination for a first visit, but a place that arouses curiosity and invites you to return - with ever new perspectives and impressions.